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Climbing Mt. Everest, Denali, and Mt. Rainier

si.com 2024/10/5
Prayer Flags on Mt. Everest / Ananya Bilimale

Iconic and glaciated, Mt. Everest, Denali and Mt. Rainier climb much the same, though height is the most distinguishing characteristic. All three are heavily glaciated mountains which require varying degrees of technical climbing experience. Mt. Rainier, located in Washington State, stands 14,410 ft. and provides an excellent introduction to real mountaineering on ice and rock. Denali, located in south-central Alaska, rises to 20,310 ft. and demands a higher degree of technical climbing skills than it's smaller sibling. The highest mountain in the world, Mt. Everest, is 29,029 ft. and located in the Himalayas. Everest resembles a super-sized Rainier and Denali. Everest requires expert mountaineering skills, as well as a longer climbing window to allow the body to acclimatize to extreme altitude. Climbing Mt. Rainier and Denali, among other mountains, bolsters the climbing resumes of those seeking to summit the world's highest peaks.

Mt. Rainier is the most glaciated mountain in the lower 48 states, and is the smallest of the three siblings that share very similar climbing characteristics. Prominent routes include:

Disappointment Cleaver Route: The most popular and accessible route, starts at Paradise (5,400 ft.). Climbers ascend the Muir Snowfield, camp at Camp Muir (10,188ft.), navigate Disappointment Cleaver, and cross the Ingraham Glacier to the summit.
Emmons-Winthrop Route: This route begins at White River Campground (4,400 feet), and follows the Emmons Glacier to the summit. It is the least technical route but involves a longer approach and glacier travel. 
Liberty Ridge Route: Liberty Ridge is a steep and exposed ridge that requires advanced alpine climbing skills. This route is known for its difficulty and objective hazards.
Kautz Glacier Route: This route starts at Paradise, and takes climbers up the Kautz Glacier. It involves ice climbing, making it a good choice for climbers with prior glacier and ice experience, and is great preparation for climbing Denali.
Fuhrer Finger Route: The Fuhrer Finger, is a steep and narrow snow gully. It is a technical and demanding route with high avalanche risk, best suited for experienced climbers and skiers.

Denali is the highest peak in North America. Climbing Denali is a demanding expedition due to its extreme altitude and harsh weather. Routes include:

West Buttress Route: The most popular route begins at the Kahiltna Glacier (7,200 ft.). Climbers ascend the West Buttress, which is known for its logistical simplicity and requires about two to three weeks.
West Rib Route: This is a more technical route that involves snow and ice climbing, and follows the West Rib to the summit. This route is riskier due to exposure to avalanches and rockfall.
Cassin Ridge Route: This is an extremely technical route. Climbers need advanced climbing skills to tackle the Cassin Ridge, considered one of the most challenging climbs in North America.
Muldrow Glacier Route: This route is less traveled and starts on the north side of Denali. It involves long approaches and challenging glacier travel.

Denali in North America / Patrick Federi

Climbing Mt. Everest is a formidable and dangerous undertaking due to its extreme altitude, rugged terrain, and unpredictable weather. There are two primary routes to the summit:

South Col Route (Southeast Ridge): This is the most climbed route to the summit. It begins on the Nepal side and starts at Base Camp (17,598 ft.). Climbers ascend through the Khumbu Icefall, traverse the Western Cwm, and climb the Lhotse Face en route to the South Col, the Hillary Step and the summit. 
North Ridge Route (Tibetan Route): This route starts on the Tibetan (North) side of Everest. Climbers begin at Base Camp (16,900 ft.) and ascend through the Rongbuk Glacier. The North Ridge is known for its exposure to extreme cold, high winds, and the challenging Second Step.

Enjoy the following video of Mt. Everest Base Camp created by Mike Hamill, founder and owner of Climbing The Seven Summits ("CTSS"). CTSS is an elite mountain guiding company focused on leading expeditions to each of the iconic Seven Summits.

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