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Why This Quietly Glamorous Tuscan Seaside Town Is Having a Moment

vogue.com 2024/10/5
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Photo: Courtesy of La Roqqa

The two main towns that form the municipality of Monte Argentario are Porto Santo Stefano on the western side, which is three times larger with a lively waterfront and more shops and restaurants than the smaller fishing village of Porto Ercole, located in the east. While both are historic fishing villages known for their medieval forts and picturesque harbors, Porto Ercole provides a more intimate experience. For travelers with time, it’s worth visiting both—from waking up to the sunrise in Porto Ercole, to catching the sunset in Porto Santo Stefano.

While Porto Ercole remains one of Italy’s most authentic seaside villages, the years following its golden age saw younger generations retreating elsewhere for their summer holidays, thus delaying development and leaving in their wake Porto Ercole’s only notable institution: Il Pellicano. If even the most discerning travelers haven’t heard of Porto Ercole, surely they’ve heard of its most esteemed resort. Though travelers visiting Il Pellicano aren’t typically coming to explore Porto Ercole per se, but rather to hide away at the hotel—and who can blame them? With its picturesque beach etched into the cliffside, pool, restaurants, tennis courts, and spa, Il Pellicano, by design, has created its own little village designed to keep you there.

With the opening of La Roqqa, a laid-back, family-owned luxury hotel inspired by the 1960s Dolce Vita and the only luxury hotel in the heart of the town, guests are encouraged to discover the unique allure of Porto Ercole outside the hotel’s walls. While other hotels in the area tout exclusivity and isolation, it was important for the Swedish-born Jonsson family, who fell in love with Porto Ercole’s dramatic scenery and authentic untouched charms when they began spending their summers here 12 years ago, to create a place that affords guests the freedom to explore the magic of this forgotten paradise.

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Photo: Alessandro Moggi
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