From the tombs of ancient pharaohs to modern fashion runways, ikat has woven its way through time, preserving stories and traditions with every thread.
Who hasn’t dived into their mom’s and grandmom’s sari cabinet, ooh-ing and aah-ing at the luxury of it all? Taking from our shared love of Indian textiles, we have come up with a new bimonthly series on them, for those who don’t know. In our first dispatch of the series, we wrote about the history and legacy of the shahi (royal) zardozi, and now we come to Ikat.
In a bustling marketplace, sunlight catches on a woman’s sari, its intricate patterns shimmering like a desert mirage. This is ikat, a captivating Indian textile where the resist-dyed threads don’t just capture its beauty but also whisper the tales of history and artistry.
According to Professor John Varghese, School of Fashion, World University of Design (WUD), Sonipat, the oldest surviving fragment of ikat was discovered in the tomb of an Egyptian pharaoh, suggesting its antiquity and early global reach. This particular piece was traced back to the Indian state of Odisha, highlighting India’s rich textile heritage, he said.
For centuries, ikat has been used to create intricate, colourful patterns on textiles, often serving as a symbol of social status and cultural identity in regions such as South and Southeast Asia, Central Asia, Africa, and Latin America, explained Prof. Varghese.
Designer duo David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore, better known as Abraham & Thakore, are famous for having worked extensively with the textile. One of their first pieces, a double-ikat houdstooth sari in amla and black, now resides at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, as a part of their permanent archives.
From ancient India to the modern
The word “ikat” comes from the Malaysian-Indonesian word “mengikat”, which means “to tie” or “to bind,” they explained, referencing the method used to resist the application of dyes to the yarns. As it adapted to many parts of India, each region developed its own distinct ikat styles and patterns, often influenced by local motifs, colours, and traditions, the designer duo said in an interaction.
Across the vast subcontinent, ikat blossoms in a kaleidoscope of regional expressions. Odisha boasts its double ikat, a mesmerising dance of resist-dyed warp and weft threads, birthing dazzling geometric patterns. Gujarat’s Patola silk, as vibrant as a thousand marigold sunsets, is woven with stories in its threads – paisleys like teardrops and flowers blooming in eternal spring. In Andhra Pradesh, Uppada ikat whispers tales of the earth, its geometric patterns echoing the symmetry of temples and its colours, the hues of natural dyes. Each region, a distinct verse in the epic poem of ikat.
But ikat was more than just adornment. It was a language woven in silk and spice, a social code etched in vibrant hues. Specific patterns, reserved for royalty or auspicious occasions, spoke volumes without a single word. The creation of ikat, often a family legacy passed down through generations, demanded the patience of a meditating sadhu and the dexterity of a temple dancer. Each finished piece, a testament to human skill, became an heirloom, telling stories of the weaver’s lineage and the wearer’s stature.
How is ikat made?
Udita Bansal of home-grown brand TrueBrowns, who often uses ikat in their collections, explained this labour-intensive process can take from a few days to several weeks, depending on the pattern’s complexity and the number of colours used.
“Simple designs may take around 50-100 hours, while intricate patterns require significantly more time. The result is a unique piece of fabric that showcases the artistry and dedication of skilled weavers,” she told indianexpress.com.
The ikat technique involves resist-dyeing the warp or weft yarns before weaving by tightly binding sections of the yarn to create the desired pattern. The bound sections resist the dye, resulting in an elaborate pattern once the yarns are woven together. This process requires precise calculation and immense skill from the artisans.
Abraham & Thakore said their ikat can take hundreds, if not thousands, of hours to complete. The time required varies depending on the complexity of the design, the type of ikat (single or double), and the skill level of the artisans involved, the designer-duo said, bolstering Udita’s point.
Ikat’s modern revival: What can you do?
The 20th century saw a dimming of these vibrant threads. Mass-produced fabrics, cheap and ubiquitous, threatened to silence the ancient looms. Livelihoods dwindled, and the very essence of ikat, its soul woven into the rhythm of generations, teetered on the precipice of oblivion.
A renewed appreciation for slow fashion and handcrafted textiles has brought these exquisite fabrics back into the spotlight. Modern designers like Udita of TrueBrowns and Abraham & Thakore, storytellers in their own right, weave ikat’s legacy into their contemporary creations, reinterpreting ancient motifs for a global audience.
For Abraham & Thakore, this has meant maintaining and honouring the legacy and skills of the traditional ikat artisans while also adding their own modern design flair and interpretation to the craft.
Innovations in dyeing and weaving have expanded creative possibilities, but the labour-intensive nature of ikat poses financial challenges for artisans, explained Udita, and stressed the need to revitalise ikat through consumer education and support for fair trade practices, ensuring the craft’s survival.
People can support the rich history of this textile by being a conscious consumer and buying genuine, hand-crafted ikat textiles from reputable sources. This supports artisans and keeps traditional techniques alive.
You can also volunteer with or donate to ikat initiatives, like research organisations or workshops dedicated to preserving ikat traditions. And if nothing else, simply share your appreciation for the textile with friends and family, or on your social media.
Here’s how to differentiate between real and fake ikat
Spotting real ikat requires a keen eye. Look for imperfections like colour bleeding or subtle pattern variations, as these are hallmarks of hand-dyeing. While intricate designs are possible, extreme detail can suggest a machine-made imitation. A handmade authentic ikat will always have slight irregularities, a sign of its authenticity, said Abraham & Thakore.
Authentic ikat is woven, so the pattern will be visible on both sides of the fabric. Printed imitations typically have the pattern only on one side, added Prof. Varghese.
From the tombs of ancient pharaohs to modern fashion runways, ikat has woven its way through time, preserving stories and traditions with every thread. Yet, this beautiful art form stands at a crossroads, threatened by the proliferation of mass-produced imitations. By recognising the meticulous craftsmanship and heritage embedded in each piece, we can play a part in keeping ikat alive.